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Rust Removal with Electrolysis
MATERIALS:
• Non-conductive container
• Battery charger (more amps the better)
• Sacrificial electrode – a piece of ferrous metal (rebar is good -
Do Not use Stainless Steel)
• Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY soda (called “washing soda”)
• Wire/cable for connecting electrodes together
• Water
• Small length of chain to suspend rusty part in the solution
SETUP:
1. Solution – 1⁄2 cup of washing soda to 5 gallons of water (or one
(1) tablespoon of washing soda to one (1) gallon of water)
2. Mix solution and give soda time to dissolve – mix again
3. Insert ANODE(s) in solution with about 4” sticking above
solution – electrically connect all ANODES to each other
4. Suspend rusty part in solution – must NOT touch any
electrode
5. Connect battery charger – NEGATIVE (+) to CATHODE AND
POSITIVE (-) to ANODE
6. Place electrolysis tank outside or in WELL ventilate area – it
will produce Hydrogen gas
SAFETY:
• Turn off the battery charger before touching anything in the tank – it will SHOCK you
• Hydrogen gas will burn explosively – well-ventilated and distant from flames/sparks
• Wear Safety Googles and Gloves: Washing soda solutions are alkaline (base) and will irritate skin and
eyes.
• DO NOT USE TABLE SALT – it will create chlorine gas (extremely toxic) at the positive (CATHODE) lead.
• DO NOT COVER the electrolysis tank because it will trap the hydrogen gas, increasing the risk of ignition.
TERMINOLOGY:
CATHODE: the rusty part
NEGATIVE to CATHODE
ANODE: the sacrificial metal
POSITIVE to ANODE
ADVANTAGES OF ELECTROLYSIS
• Requires the least manual labor.
• If more than one object has fused
together by rust, electrolysis can break
these bonds of rust and separate them
from each other.
• Unlike other methods, electrolysis can
clean rust in the smallest of corners and
crevices.
• Does not damage the metal (It can’t
repair the damage rust caused though)
NOTE:
• Electrolysis only works on ferrous
metals like iron or steel.
• It does not work on non-ferrous
metals like copper, bronze or lead.